This Is My Clip Show
A Roundup of Costume Design Recommendations
First, a couple bits of housekeeping:
My March issue seems to have landed in Spam for a lot of Gmail users. (It’s still available on my website if you didn’t get to read it!) Hopefully this newsletter won’t meet the same fate, but if it has, I would appreciate you marking it as “Not spam” and adding this email address (hello@chrisindalynch.com) to your contacts.
I’m planning to devote my May issue to an AMA, which means it’s question time! You have until Thursday, 5/2, to fill out this Google form or reply to this email. I’m not planning to include anyone’s name with their question(s), but if you’d like full anonymity, use the form! (It also includes a field to provide feedback and suggested topics for the newsletter.) And of course, you can ask about anything, costume-related or otherwise, though I do reserve the right to filter out any truly filthy questions.
I just returned from a trip, so this month, I’m recommending some of my favorite media around costume design. It’s by no means an exhaustive list, but it captures some of the amazing designers and writers who keep me coming back to this art form:
Abstract: The Art of Design (“Ruth Carter: Costume Design”)
This episode of Netflix’s series on design follows Ruth E. Carter, the incredible Oscar-winning costume designer for Black Panther and Malcolm X (among many other Spike Lee joints). I just love watching an expert at work: all the reading and research and sketches and sourcing Carter does to translate the words of a screenplay into a visual language. (An exhibit on Carter’s costumes, “Afrofuturism in Costume Design,” is currently traveling and will be on display at Jamestown Settlement next.)
“Color Stories and Class Distinctions in the Costumes of Emma.” (Tom & Lorenzo)
If there’s only one fan of Tom & Lorenzo, it’s me; if there are no fans, I’m dead. This newsletter wouldn’t exist without Mad Style, their superb analysis of the costumes on Mad Men. They’ve written other excellent costume design posts since (somehow, I’ve never seen an episode of House of the Dragon, yet I know how all the characters dress). My favorite piece, though, is this deep dive into the costumes of Emma. If you haven’t seen this adaptation, please do yourself the favor of a watch, followed by a read of this piece and a warm cookie. Your night can’t get any better!!
Dressed: A Century of Hollywood Costume Design (Deborah Nadoolman Landis)
This doorstop of a book is sadly out of print, but I treasure my used, slightly mildewy copy. A costume designer herself, Landis walks through the first hundred years of movie costumes, with plenty of full-page photos and interviews. If you’re like me and your knowledge of film pre-1940 is lacking, this is an especially good resource.
“The Makeup Maestro Behind Euphoria Blends Gen Z Brilliance Into TV Magic” (Ernesto Macias)
I’m late to the Euphoria party (and frankly, I’m not sure if I want to go because those teens scare me!!), but I’ve been thinking a lot about the show’s hair and makeup looks and how they play with the costumes. This article is a fascinating breakdown of the symbolism behind all that glitter, eyeliner, and rhinestones.
And if you like this, I highly recommend checking out Siân Miller, who was the hair and makeup designer for Saltburn. On her Instagram, she outlines how each character’s beauty look evolves with their story arc—delightful, delicious, delovely.
“Fashioned by Sargent” (MFA Boston) / “Sargent and Fashion” (Tate Britain)
It may not seem like costume design at first glance, but I loved this exhibit on fashion and John Singer Sargent paintings. In a way, he was the costume designer of his paintings: adjusting a sleeve, changing a color, all to create the perfect portrait of his subject. Sadly for any U.S.-based readers, the MFA Boston exhibit closed earlier this year. (Please comfort yourself with an exhibit at FIT or the Met’s Costume Institute.) UK readers, you are still in luck! It’s currently on view at the Tate Britain.
“A Guide to the Very Gen Z Fashion in Bottoms” (Fawnia Soo Hoo)
I go to Fashionista for reliably great interviews with costume designers, including this piece on Bottoms. The film’s costume designer, Eunice Jera Lee, pulled in a lot of fashion references in this teen movie pastiche, so it’s delightful to see them all laid out here.
And finally, if you just want some more costumes on film: Have you seen the Victorian fever dream that is Poor Things yet? Or perhaps you still need to watch Down with Love and its cheeky take on those Doris Day/Rock Hudson rom-coms? And there’s a reason In the Mood for Love is always cited as a favorite film by fashion designers: Maggie Cheung’s cheongsams, rendered in vibrant florals, are just breathtaking.
I swear, he loves being held!
My ultimate recommendation: Homer! No, not the epic poet. Our latest foster cat is now available for adoption at the brand-new location of Meow Parlour. If you’ve read previous newsletters, you know I love to compare our foster cats to teen soap characters, and Homer is Luke Danes: He may appear grumpy on the outside, but he is a real softie on the inside. Picture him in a little backward baseball cap and flannel—adorable! Also, much like Luke, Homer likes spending time in the kitchen—mostly because he thinks you’re going to feed him again.
[Looking forward to reading your questions—and maybe you’ll tell me what costume design pieces you love? I’ll be back with the AMA on Thursday, 5/9.]
